Most likely you will have to do the coupling system, light check and in-cab inspections plus one of the remaining three sections. There are many sections to learn but the test is not as difficult as it seems. Studying our simplified Class-A pre-trip inspection checklist, taking classes at a local CDL training school , and watching videos will get you prepared.
When checking the engine compartment, you will always want to make sure the following components are properly mounted and secured. You should also make sure they are not cracked, bent or broken.
The items you will need to check for include:. Make sure all of the wires are connected. Also check all the hoses running to and from the water pump to make sure nothing is leaking. Check for oil or debris on the lining. Although the air compressor is hard to see, you must make sure it is properly mounted and does not leak.
The steering pump is located in the same place as the air compressor and is also gear driven. Ensure the steering pump is not leaking. The hoses should be secure at both ends. There should be no abrasions, bulges or cuts. Fluids run through these hoses, so it is important to make sure they are not leaking. There should be no lug nuts missing. Look for rust trails, powder residue and cracks around the bolt holes. Make sure the pitman arm is properly mounted and secure.
It should be not cracked, bent or broken. Make sure the shock absorber is not leaking. If it is leaking, the leak will be at the point where the top and bottom portion of the shock meet. Make sure the steering column is properly mounted and secure. It should not be cracked, bent or broken. Look for abrasions, bulges or cuts on the tread or sidewalls. This can be checked with an air gauge.
Again it is important to make sure these items are properly mounted and secure. Look for cracks, bends, and breaks. The actual airbag is rubber, so it is important to check for abrasions, bulges, cuts and leaks, in addition to any missing mounting bolts.
There should be no oil or debris on the brake lining. Physically demonstrate that the doors open, close and latch properly. Door seals should not be worn, torn or rotten. The tread and sidewalls should have no abrasions, bulges or cuts.
There should be no unauthorized holes or welds. Bundle up the cross members to ensure none are missing. Rust trails could indicate loose bolts, while powder residue and racks around the bolts could mean the bolts have been over-tightened. The shock absorber should be secure at both ends and not leaking. If it does leak, it will leak in the middle.
If you are equipped with duals, check to see there is proper spacing between the tires and there is nothing stuck. Air lines should be secure at both ends with no abrasions, bulges or cuts. They should not be leaking, dragging or tangled. The electric line should be secure at both ends. There should be no abrasions, bulges, cuts or exposed wires.
The gap is not an actual item, however there should be no space between the apron and the skid plate. Again make sure the airbag has no abrasions, bulges, cuts or leakings. The airbag should not be missing any mounting bolts.
Check for oil or debris on the brake lining. Rust trails indicate loose bolts. Powder residue and cracks around the bolt holes could be an indication of over-tightened bolts. The rear door should open, close and latch properly. Door seals should not be worn, torn or dry rotten. When the brakes are released and pulled by hand, the push rod should not move more than one inch. There should be no abrasions, bulges or cuts to the tread or sidewalls.
Print: Light check checklist. For the In-Cab Inspection you will once again want to make sure all of the following components are properly mounted and secure. As well as the following:. Your truck should have a fire extinguisher, three red reflective triangles and spare electrical fuses. Check the left turn, right turn, four way flashers and high beams; also point these out on the dashboard. Make sure transmission is in neutral and then fully depress the clutch.
Turn the key on, check the ABS light, announce when it comes on and off, and start the engine. Release both the tractor and trailer brakes. Drive at idle speed. Our study guide is broken down into the following sections:. The Pre-Trip Inspection is a thorough inspection of the vehicle and all of its major systems. Inspecting the vehicle before driving each day is a Federal requirement and normally takes about 15 minutes. It must be logged in your logbook as "on duty not driving.
You will have to do thorough safety inspections of the coupling system, the vehicle lights, engine compartment, tires and brakes, the chassis, the fuel tanks, and an in-cab inspection.
Daniel's Complete Pre-Trip Inspection. You will be checking the engine compartment for any sort of leaks. You will also be checking to see if all components are properly mounted and secured. None of the mounts must be cracked, bent, or broken. You will be checking all hoses to make sure they aren't leaking, frayed, or sliced and the fluid levels including the oil level, the coolant, and the power steering fluid.
You must check the components like the water pump, the power steering pump, and the alternator to make sure nothing is leaking, the belts are not frayed, and that everything is properly mounted and secured.
From inside the engine compartment you will also find the steering system, the front suspension system, and the front brake system. All components of these systems must be properly mounted and secured without anything being cracked, bent, or broken.
Finally you will be checking the tires, rims, and axle seals to make sure the tires are properly inflated, the rim isn't bent or cracked, and the axle seals are not leaking.
You will be standing along the side of the tractor doing a series of checks on the mirrors, fuel tanks, batteries, exhaust system, and more. You will check to make sure nothing is bent, cracked, broken, or leaking. Check the mirrors, door hinges, door handle to make sure nothing is cracked, bent, or broken.
Check to make sure there is no fuel leaking and that the fuel cap is secured and the gasket is not missing. Check the exhaust system to make sure nothing is cracked, bent, or broken. Check the driveshaft, cat walk, and steps to make sure nothing is cracked, bent, or broken.
Check the frame and crossmembers for structural integrity. Check the air lines going to the trailer to make sure they're properly connected and that there are no abrasions, bulges, or cuts.
Make sure the gaskets are present. Check the suspension system and brakes on the drive axles, making sure nothing is cracked, bent, or broken. Make sure the brake linings are the proper thickness and that the air bags and properly inflated.
Inspect the brake chambers, slack adjusters, and pushrods are properly mounted and secure. Not Cracked, Bent, or Broken. With the brakes released and pulled by hand, the Push Rod should not move more than 1 inch. Check the rims, tires, and axle seals of the drive tires for proper inflation, no leaks around the seal, and the lugs are all present and secured.
You will be standing where the tractor and trailer are connected and you'll start by checking the electrical line and air lines to make sure they're properly mounted and secure at both ends. No abrasions, bulges or cuts.
Not leaking air. Make sure the electrical line has no wires exposed. Check the gladhands to make sure the seals are in good condition, no cracks or signs of dry rotting.
Check the skid plate of the fifth wheel and the apron of the trailer to make sure there is no debris and nothing is cracked, bent, or broken. Make sure the fifth wheel is properly greased. Also make sure there is no gap in between the fifth wheel and the trailer apron once the tractor and trailer are coupled. Make sure the kingpin of the trailer is properly mounted and not cracked, bent, or broken and that the locking jaws of the fifth wheel are properly secured when the tractor and trailer are coupled.
Check the mounting bolts where the fifth wheel attaches to the tractor frame. Make sure there are no missing bolts and that everything is secured properly. Check the locking pin if you having a sliding fifth wheel to make sure it's properly locked into place. You will start inspecting the trailer at the head board, which is the front wall of the trailer. Make sure there are no holes or missing rivets. Check the landing gear to make sure it is properly mounted and secure. Not cracked, bent, or broken.
Make sure the fully raised and the handle is secure in the cradle when the tractor and trailer are coupled. Check the frame and crossmembers under the trailer to make sure they're not cracked, bent, or broken. Check the tandem frame and release pins to make sure the frame is in good condition and the release handle and locking pins are in the fully locked position.
You will check the entire suspension and brake system for the trailer tandems the same way you did for the drive axles of the tractor. You will also make sure the mudflaps are properly secured. For dual tires check to see that there is proper space between the tires and there is nothing stuck between the tires. Check the rear door and hinges to make sure they are properly mounted and nothing is cracked, bent, or broken. Make sure the door seals are not worn, torn, or dry rotted.
You will be checking all of the lights and reflectors on both the tractor and the trailer. Check the reflectors and reflective tape to make sure they are properly mounted and secure, not cracked, bent, or broken, and clean and illuminated. Check that you have the proper color of amber to the front and sides, and red to the rear. Start by turning on your marker lights and headlights. Now walk around the entire truck and trailer and point out the lights.
Give the function of the light and the location. You should then ask your examiner to help you check your five functions. While you're sitting in the drivers seat, the examiner will stand to the front of the truck, then behind the trailer. You must do each function at every location. The in-cab inspection and air brake check will cover the various gauges and systems inside the cab along with several tests to make sure you air brake system is working properly.
Trailer Parking Brakes - Set the Trailer Brake, release the tractor brake, and then tug lightly on the trailer. Tractor Parking Brakes- Then set the Tractor Brake, release the trailer brake, and then tug lightly on the tractor. Now drive at idle speed. Apply the Service Brake to make sure you come to a complete stop, and that it doesn't pull to the left or right when applying the brakes. The air brake test will consist of a leakdown test to make sure your air brakes aren't leaking air and losing pressure.
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